I had been dining with one of Lima's literary birds, Julio Villanueva Chang, the founding editor of Etiqueta Negra, the nation's best cultural magazine for at least a decade. I thought he'd been drinking too much, but no. The scene was both cool and cool-damp mist, nice houses, a pretty woman in a short skirt across the street. We were walking back from dinner, through Miraflores, the beachside suburb of Lima, Peru's newly remade capital. These include indigestion, melancholy, ill temper, alcohol poisoning, and social, cultural, gastronomic, and physical decline. You have to take a paseo after dinner, a ritual walk, or you face side effects.
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